Spence wrote on Dec 25
th, 2015 at 10:43am:
You are correct that on an overhead cam decking the block and/or milling the head will retard the cams if something is not done to correct the relationship. This is more in the extreme then just cleaning up a surface. Adjustable cam sprockets are what we use. The newer setups from the OE's address this issue with a key less camshaft/sprocket setup.
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Spence, thanks, as my point when talking to these people is that from what I can glean they are doing nothing to take this into account to my knowledge. You have made a point which would answer my question adjusting the cam as it would be off, thanks for the input.
I know my instructor does play some games with keys and the like and other games can be played if the cam is merely tapered. It is a sad state but when I keep asking the folks supposed to be in the know, they are doing nothing to adjust this. Sure it might run okay!, but okay and right are different. My son has a Subi Forester and thinks its the hot stuff. We did struggle on it with Cat inefficiency codes and seems to be predominate on this car, the fix was a strange one but my point is how many of these ongoing problems are the accumulation of a lot of small errors and leave the next guy chasing his tail.
Ward Zintel wrote on Dec 25
th, 2015 at 4:27pm:
Re: Machining heads, pros and cons and other
Reply #4 - Yesterday at 4:27pm Hello stitchB
Right out of high school I worked in an automotive machine shop. On the north american V8s of the day when it cam to shaving heads if you took .030" of the cylinder head you would take .010" off the intake face of the head so the intake manifold would still line up.
This was back when a 1980 was new production with a warrantee, they were cast iron push rod engines, unless some one was trying to bump up the compression ratio by shaving the heads we rarely ever shaved them .030". Pushrod engines valve timing was not affected providing the lifters still had enough travel.
-Ward-
Ward thanks, as I am aware that a push rod engine would not suffer from this, but I know it was a struggle to get the manifold bolts in, pretty funny now, was not then.

Most the heads I have been involved with did not need to be done more than .010.
I ask these questions as there is a lot of stuff done out there that is not right, even from the dealer. I did the timing belt on the secretary TDI @ work. This car as been serviced from the dealer for 85,000 and I said I would do the timing belt. It had a historic ECT code on and off for several years and several new sensors, not to mention the timing when viewed on the Vag was off. When I did the coolant using an uplift tool, amazing enough the code left for good and the fuel mileage improved by about 5 miles to the gallon. I ask numerous shops about this practice and they have no idea what I am talking about. Many of these are ASME certified with 30 years, again this is how I bought a Pico and started down this trail, I just got tired of it.
By the way I have the source of many high level Techs, but like a broad base as they do not all agree, as really that would be kind of boring. I do value your input, thanks again.
Have a great new year.

Larry, AKA Stitch B