Autonerdz forums

Firstly I know nothing about bikes, I got conned into looking for a miss/cutting out problem I'm just using the “force” to feel my way around.

I first set up my scope across the battery and was somewhat surprised by what I saw.
Just by chance I unplugged the regulator/rectifier unit and now it runs ok
With everything plugged in, my multi-meter reads up to 18vs with 1.2v ac, so I’m thinking leaking diodes
Now I’m confused how it works, 3 phase windings with 6 wires (2X 3 pin plugs) one plug connects to the reg/rectifier mounted on right side, the other plug goes to another black electronic box behind the battery
The 3 stator wires all have the same voltage 40V and climbing if revved high enough

Q1) does this black box need a ignition voltage boost?
Q2) does this black box control the other half phase charging circuit
Q3) why is the stator voltage look "square" and not a wave?

I couldn't find time to have another shot at diagnosing this so my friend took it to a cycle shop.

Got told the stators stuffed, so was replaced but didn't fix it
Rung back and got told diodes were leaking - didn't fix it
Rung back and got told "found high resistance in wiring" didn't fix it
Rung back and got told the ignition box caused the problems, so it was replaced
And the battery not holding a charge - replaced

Yup - got fixed alright 

I like how they expect you to pay for all the parts and labor they wasted with this hit the bullseye repair technique 

RtOne wrote on Mar 15^th, 2013 at 6:41pm:

Not always

 

They threw every part at this one and didn't fix it. They even threw the same parts a second time. The dealer had no clue so the shop called me to replace and program a new PCM.  I was able to stop them with some logical diagnostic work and found the issue within an hour.  The customer had spent 2600 dollars with no change. She had been driving it like this for 8 months 

2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.4L with DIS, non Turbo.