Autonerdz forums

GRUSS wrote on Jan 27^th, 2012 at 11:52pm:


It will be interesting to see them both perform together.

I thought at first the LC-1 had influence but it is just an idiot light as such.

I look forward to your results.

GRUSS wrote on Jan 28^th, 2012 at 7:49am:



You said this add-on does not affect the ECU so then it’s just a confirming to you what your ECU is telling you in the data it sends out to your scan tool or scope when you connect to the original sensors.

The dash board is full of idiot lights battery, oil, headlamps, and now you have and air fuel ratio one. That all I was saying no offence to you at all.

GRUSS wrote on Jan 28^th, 2012 at 7:49am:


When you do this hook up to the other one you installed as well use a  second channel.

Gruss

Here is a good single wire 02 off idle

Ray

GRUSS wrote on Feb 12^th, 2012 at 9:35am:



Why new ? have you any proof the old is U/S ?

GRUSS wrote on Feb 14^th, 2012 at 11:11am:

You can't at the moment.
GRUSS wrote on Feb 14^th, 2012 at 11:11am:

You tell us, does it look better in the modded file or when its all hairy without filter ?
GRUSS wrote on Feb 14^th, 2012 at 11:11am:

What did you diagnose ? i saw nothing in the way of proof that the sensor was U/S, did you force it rich & lean & post the results ?

GRUSS wrote on Feb 14^th, 2012 at 11:11am:


This maybe a false pass for you at the moment, I say this because the original and universal may not be designed to work the same.

But let’s say they are the same for now, did the LC-1 give you different air fuel ratio readings than before?

How does the new o2 look on the scope at 2000 RPM?

hey gruss its good that you are testing and good that some members are giving you some decent sujestions and help.

did you keep the old sensor?

whats the ohms/resistance reading compared to the new one? i know you want to use the scope but at least you can prove it to any doubting party's. it will be a dif reading but may prove your point

you can bench test it off the car with muilti meter and propane torch using a muilti meter or scope maybe?  its old school but so is your sensor

connect vice grips to the sensor body threads sit on bench connect the ground lead from meter on grips and conect the signal wire to positive , set on 2 volt scale not auto or connect the scope for timing which could be interesting. get propane torch (b&q 8 quid) light it up and heat the sensor tip moving flame constantly  it should reach .9v or 900mv within 60 seconds, then pull away it should go back to near zero or origional voltage within 3 seconds , if neither of these are met then its fcuk'd or if its reading a high voltage before heating  

someone may shoot me down and i know you wana use the scope to test but at least you can bench test prefrebly with scope as you will be able to see the exact times. and post the proof 

the propane can be used to feed into the engine also to do the same test on the car to drive it to 900mv rich then pull an air pipe for the lean test whist car running which i think someone commented on but never actually told you how  

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not every one is a genius like you, and has had the chance in between being told too do servicing clutches ball joints or whatever being pushed from pillar to post. where did you learn your genius rob? was it taught to you, or were just born with it? it seems to me  you dont want to help anyone or share your wisdome but more pick holes in every ones way of doing things

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this may be but if its off already he should test it, which will tell us 100% weather it is knackered without worying about other variables  like exhaust leaks intake leaks bad map etc plus you can tell just by looking at it if its contaminated or if its been running rich/lean the eyes and sense of smell are wonderfull tools and whats wrong with the test why isnt it the best ?

Edited:


you tell us, why should you ask such a question rob dont you allready  know the answer