Okay, have a 250 dual sport, had it running, kick start, but not consistent. CV carb always questionable but is cleaned, really clean.
The spark is not stellar but is consistent.  This is what I'm trying to validate. Have checked valve clearance, specs around 4 to 6 thou, intake and exhaust, meaning they are not hung open. Have a few kick start captures of king set up, shows spark, but what constitutes good? Even did a mickey mouse compression wave to validate timing and ignition are where they are supposed to be.
Has anyone tried getting compression wave (keep in mind, kick starter) so images are convoluted and pressures I get using WSP500 are off the chart. BUT, is you figure in slow crank with a kick it is possible that I could accumulate as high reading.

I'm trying to condemn the CDI, which has spark but not stellar, will drop in what I have, and get a firing line of about 400U, which seems to be congruent with several of my other bikes.

dropping a comparison CDI from 2003 Kawasaki Super Sherpa to look at. CDI signatures look nothing like some automotive. Seems a standard fire time is about 500U, traditional cars 1-2 MS as I recall.

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Dropping a couple screen prints. Also for CDI I know on my KLR coil is run 120V AC, and the ring looks just like this one, is that because it is AC?, makes sense to me as caught me by surprise when putting a Volt meter on coil and came up with 120AC, thought I was reading wrong. But it is and alternator and not turned to DC, so then made sense. Also noted on that bike coil is very small about the size of a roll of dimes.

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Disected signature of kick start.

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Did a capture today to understand CDI. Noted capture is secondary with no fuel, so cranking and no start. Noted that the compression cycle with no fuel raises up off ground just like the kick start unit. That said once adding fuel and running the firing of both compression and waste fire are down at ground. Any ideas on this, as has some logic, not sure what but is exhibited on running unit.

Ring on kick start unit looks weak compared to running one, I.E, meaning the size and time of the ring.

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Looks okay to me, that burn time is about what you can expect from a lot of CDI type ignition.

okay, going to post a fix on this, as I always say, makes sense once you find it. Talked to a couple buddies and turns out pretty simple. Initioally when I started it months ago with a new battery when kicking it I started all the way at the top. If you look at DSO patterns this takes you through, CEC, or depending ECE, but enough cycles to transition fuel through the system, makes sense from later. On a good day or if warm you only needed to pump half way through the kick to the compression stroke qt the bottom and it would fire. After looking at all systems, spark, timing you name it and great compression but sometimes when cold would not light, but with a sniff and maybe not even then. BUT. FULL choke cold all the way at the top, going through 3 cycles viewed with scope and it will ice cold start on the 2nd or third kick. Once warm then would fire right at the bottom. So was a simple fix and luckily with the Pico I refused to replace numerous electrical items as they all showed to be solid. Once again if this would have had and electric start or bump started it would have fired.

Larry